Development and Characterization of Herbal Lip jelly Containing Beta vulgaris Alcoholic Extract for Lip Shade


Prashant Nayak*, Narayana Charyulu R, Sandeep DS, Sonal D’Souza, Nishmitha Gretta D’Souza

Department of Pharmaceutics, NGSM Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Paneer, Deralakatte, Mangalore, Karnataka, India.

Corresponding Author E-mail:



The present study aims at Herbal Cosmetics which are in heavy demand these days. The formulation of lip jelly was prepared using extract of Beta vulgaris. Lip jelly was found to be comparable to lipstick and lip balm. Lip jelly prevents the lips from environmental factors and gives a pleasant appearance. Current scenario synthetic colours are widely used which has got side effect. Ancient people were using roots and herbs for preparing cosmetics which proved to be safe to humans. Beta vulgaris used in India is a natural dyeing agent which imparted red or purple colour to the formulation. The present formulation of lip jelly is developed by using natural dye obtained from Beta vulgaris. It is evaluated for organoleptic properties like colour, odour, spread ability, pH, melting point etc. The formulation had an appealing colour and was found to be odorless. Spread ability was found to be in the range of 31-43 cm2, pH was in range 6.0-7.0, melting point was in range 57-59 °C and viscocity was found to be in range of 350-1020 cp. The characteristics of developed lip jelly were found to be satisfactory.


KEYWORDS: Herbal lip jelly, Beta vulgaris, Natural dye, Spreadability and pH.




Natural products have been used as medicines from thousands of years. Many of the products are having pharmacological activity and its activity is proven and the drug is recognized as a human medicine 1. Coloring lips are the ancient practice to enhance the beauty of lips and to give glamour touch to the face make up. For this the choice for shades of colour, textures, lustre’s have been changed and became wider. This can be observed from the lip jelly, lip balm, lipstick marketed in hundreds of shades of colours to satisfy the demand of women2.


Lip jellies are transparent or translucent, non greasy, semi solid preparations which are intended for external application on lips. In recent times lip jelly have been under scanner of many health watchers and it is found that lip jelly is often eaten away by user and hence the ingredients are swallowed accidently in the body of user. The dye present in the lip jelly is dangerous to consumer in mild form it is carcinogenic and can cause nausea, dermatitis and drying of lips3. The lips serve as organs of prehension, suction and speech. It is composed of the skin, superficial fascia, orbicularis muscle and the muscles inserted around it (areolar tissue & mucous membrane). The margins of the lips are covered with dry, red mucous membrane, continuous with the skin and containing numerous vascular papillae and touch corpuscles4. The areolar tissue or sub mucous layer contains the coronary vessels which completely encircle the buccal orifice near the free margin of the lips. The coronary vessels are the superior and inferior coronary arteries which arise from the facial 5.


Lip Disorders :

1. Swelling:

An allergic reaction can make the lips swell. The reaction may be caused by sensitivity to certain foods or beverages, drugs, lipstick, or airborne irritants. When a cause can be identified and then eliminated, the lips usually return to normal. But frequently, the cause of the swelling remains a mystery 6.


2. Sun Damage:

Sun damage may make the lips, especially the lower lip, hard and dry. Red speckles or a white filmy look signal damage that increases the chance of subsequent cancer. This type of damage can be reduced by covering the lips with a lip balm containing sunscreen6.


3. Inflammation:

With inflammation of the lips (cheilitis), the corners of the mouth may become painful, irritated, red, cracked, and scaly. Cheilitis may result from a deficiency of vitamin B2 in the diet.


4. Discoloration:

Freckles and irregularly shaped brownish areas (melanotic macules) are common around the lips and may last for many years. These marks are not cause for concern. Multiple, small, scattered brownish black spots may be a sign of a hereditary disease called Peutz-Jeghers syndrome, in which polyps form in the stomach and intestines7.


5. Sores:

A raised area or a sore with hard edges on the lip may be a form of skin cancer. Other sores may develop as symptoms of other medical conditions, such as oral herpes simplex virus infection or syphilis. Still others, such as keratoacanthoma, have no known cause. Current market uses synthetic colorants in lipcosmetics which have various side effects like swelling, sundamage, inflammation, discolouration and sores. Nature is full of colors which are safer to human. The study was designed to extract natural colors and use it for development of herbal lip jelly. Current formulation involves the development of lip jelly by using natural dye obtained from the root of Beta vulgaris. It is evaluated for organoleptic properties like colour, odour, spread ability, pH, melting point, etc. Beta vulgaris (Amaranthaceae) which is found throughout the Mediterranean, the Atlantic coast of Europe, the Near East and India is one of the natural dyeing agent. The colour pigments isolated from the roots of B. vulgaris can be used in food colorant in which Betalain is the major constituent of pigments which gives the red or purple colour to the formulations.  It is more preferable to replace synthetic colours with the naturally occurring dyes because of its non- toxic, biodegradable and eco-friendly properties.



Collection of Plant Material:

The Beta vulgaris Linn herbal extracts used in formulation of herbal lipstick was collected in the months of January 2016. Beta vulgaris (beetroot) were procured from the local market of Mangalore in Karnataka, India.


Extraction of Colour Pigments from Plant Constituents

Decoction process was used for the extraction of colour pigment and it was prepared by boiling the beetroot with ethanol. The vegetable material was cut into slices having approximately 21 mm length, 5 mm width and 1-2 mm and boiled with ethanol at 60 to 80 °C approximately for 15 min[4]. The starting ratio of crude drug to ethanol is fixed, e.g. 1:4 or 1:16; the volume is then brought down to one-fourth its original volume by boiling during the extraction procedure. Then, the concentrated extract is filtered and used as such in the formulation. Dark reddish coloured extract was obtained. The concentrated extract was then kept in desiccators to remove the excessive moisture. The dried extract was packed in air tight glass container for further studies[14].


Preparation of Herbal Lip Jelly:

The herbal lip jelly was prepared from the ethanolic extracts of the roots of Beta vulgaris and honey, petroleum jelly, lanolin, strawberry essence and vanillin was added as per the formulation in Table 1.  Petroleum jelly and lanolin was melted and required quantity of beetroot extract was incorporated into the base mixture later honey, strawberry essence and vanillin were added and it was allowed to get a consistency at a room temperature only. Prepared formulations are shown in Fig: 1 designated as LJ1, LJ 2, LJ 3and LJ 4.


Table 1: Formulation of herbal lip jelly

Ingredients (gm)





Ethanolic extract of Beta vulgaris





Petroleum jelly





















Evaluation of Herbal lip Jelly:

The prepared herbal lip jelly is evaluated for its physical properties like colour, odour, pH, melting point, spreadability and viscosity.



Fig 1: Formulation of herbal lip jelly



Colour and Odour:

Colour and appearance was characterized by visualizing in 10x magnification under microscope, while the odour was compared by the group of evaluators (three groups of evaluators having 3 individuals in each, they have scored the perfume stability of formulation in the + mark as per result.


Test for Spread ability:

The test for spread ability was performed by applying the product on glass slide at room temperature repeatedly to observe uniformity in the formulation of protective layer and whether the stick fragmental deformed or broke during application for appropriate results of different formulation.


Melting point:

To determine the melting point, the lip jelly was melted and molten preparation was filled into the capillaries and was allowed to cool to regain its original nature. Then capillary was coupled with the thermometer and this coupled system was immersed in water at controlled temperature. The temperature at which the lip jelly was observed as fully molten that temperature points was noted as its melting point8.


pH Parameter:

The pH of formulated herbal lip jellies were determined by using digital pH meter. 2.5gm of gel was accurately weighed and dispersed in 25ml of distilled water and stored for two hours. The measurement of pH of each formulation was carried out in triplicate and the average values are represented (Table 2).



The viscosity of the formulation was measured using Brookfield viscometer using spindle number 96 at 10 rpm. The spindle was rotated at 2.5 rpm .samples of the lip jelly were allowed to settle over 30 min at the temperature of test (25±10 c) before the measurement were taken. All readings were taken in triplicate and average was calculated9.



The results of evaluation parameters of prepared herbal lip jelly formulations is sown in below table 2 and 3.


Table 2: Evaluation of Colour, Odour and Spread ability:




Spread ability


Reddish pink








Reddish orange




Reddish yellow



Very Good +++, Good ++, Average +


The colour of the preparation was found to be pleasing, out of which LJ1 formulation gives a more appealing reddish pink colour when compared to the other formulations. Among the four formulations, the LJ1 and LJ2 formulations were found to have very good odour and the LJ3 and LJ4 formulations were found to have good odour. Among the four formulations, the LJ1 and LJ2 formulations were found to have good spread ability and LJ3 and LJ4 formulations were found to have intermediate spread ability.



Table 3: Evaluation of Melting point, pH and Viscosity:


Melting point (0 c)


Viscocity (cps)


















The melting point of the formulations was found to be good in the range of 57-59 oC. The pH of all the formulations was excellent and found to be in the range of 6.0-7.0. The viscocity of the formulation was found to be in range 350-1020 cps at 10 rpm.



The present research focuses on using herbal ingredients in the preparation of lip jelly which has minimal and no side effects. Beet root ease of availability and promising prominent colour made it fit for the formulation. The prepared lip jelly was evaluated for physical characteristics like viscosity, pH, melting point and colour, which showed promising results as compared to marketed lip jelly. Thus we can conclude that the use of natural dyes of Beta vulgaris in preparing lip jelly is promising step towards healthy herbal cosmetics.



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3.       Mehta RM. Pharmaceutics-I, Introduction to dosage forms, Vallabh Prakashan, Delhi , 1996;3rd ed: pp. 26

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6., (accessed on 9th Feb 2016)

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8.       Ellison, Don. Cultivated Plants of the World. London: New Holland. 1999, 209-217. 

9.       Sharma PP. Cosmetics-Formulation and Quality Control, Vandana Publication, Delhi; 2005; 3rd ed: pp. 35-54.





Received on 18.10.2016          Modified on 30.10.2016

Accepted on 06.11.2016        © RJPT All right reserved

Research J. Pharm. and Tech 2016; 9(12):2261-2264.

DOI: 10.5958/0974-360X.2016.00456.X