Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lipstick using Lycopene Extracted from Solanum lycopersicum L

 

D. A. Bhagwat¹*, N. D. Patil¹, G. S. Patel¹, S. G. Killedar², H. N. More³

¹Department of Pharmaceutics, Bharati Vidyapeeth College of Pharmacy, Kolhapur-416013, MS. India

²Department of Pharmacognosy, Bharati Vidyapeeth College of Pharmacy, Kolhapur-416013, MS. India

³Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Bharati Vidyapeeth College of Pharmacy, Kolhapur-416013, MS. India

 

ABSTRACT:

Herbal cosmetics are gaining popularity as nowadays most women prefer natural products over chemicals for their personal care and to enhance their beauty. Compared to other beauty products, natural cosmetics are safe to use. Synthetic colouring agents may cause allergic reactions and were found to be carcinogenic. Aim of present study was to formulate and evaluate herbal lipstick using lycopene extracted from Solanum lycopersicum L. as a colouring agent. Along with lycopene different natural ingredients such as bees wax, carnuba wax, white soft paraffin, castor oil, strawberry essence and lemon juice were used to formulate herbal lipstick. Prepared herbal lipstick were evaluated for different evaluation test such as colour, texture, pH, melting point, breaking point, softening point, surface anomalies, ageing and perfume stability and also compared with marketed standard formulation. Results showed that, different evaluation parameters of prepared herbal lipstick were resembled with standard values and with marketed formulation. Study concluded that, lycopene extracted from Solanum lycopersicum L. may be better option for synthetic colouring agent.

 

 

 

INTRODUCTION:

Cosmetics have become an integral part of every woman’s life. Herbal cosmetics are products which are formulated using various permissible cosmetic ingredients in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide distinct cosmetic benefits.¹ They are also called as natural cosmetics. Herbal cosmetics are the modern trend in the field of beauty and fashion. The herbal cosmetics industry is experiencing a rising graph for its market and products which are being sold the world over. Today, there are a plethora of brands in the herbal cosmetics market. Yet, the market is still growing and there is scope for new entrants who can deliver quality natural based products that will satisfy the consumer’s requirements.

 

These products are gaining popularity as nowadays most women prefer natural products over chemicals for their personal care to enhance their beauty as these products supply the body with nutrients and enhance health and provide satisfaction as these are free from synthetic chemicals and have relatively less side-effects compared to the synthetic cosmetics.²

 

Lipstick is cosmetic preparation used to colour the lip and protect lips from external environment. Colouring lips in an ancient practice date back to prehistoric period. In present days the use of product has increased and choice of shades of colours, textures, luster, have been changed and become wider. This can observed from the facts that lipstick is marketed in hundred of sheds of colours to satisfy the demand of the women. In recent time’s lipsticks have been under the scanners of many health watchers. Lipsticks are often eaten away by the user and hence it is imperative that health regulators have a microscopic look at the ingredients that go into the lipstick. The dyes that contribute to the colour of the lipstick are dangerous to humans on consumption. In a mild form, the coal tars that are the basic ingredients from which synthetic dyes are formed can cause allergy, nausea, dermatitis, and drying of the lips. In a more severe form they can be carcinogenic and even fatal.³

 

The pigments and dyes, though they make up only a minor percentage of the lipstick’s composition, are certainly the most important, as they impart the colour of the lipstick. Cosmetic manufacturers look for natural colouring materials that offer additional multifunctional effects in lip care products, foundations, hair colouring, and other colour cosmetics, including UV protection, anti-aging, and related functionalities. Many natural colours that meet these requirements evolved from traditional use in foods and cosmetics. These are usually plant pigments or dyes with a history of safe human use. Plant pigments such as anthocyanins, and carotenoids have scientifically validated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Historically, plant pigments such as curcumin, beet anthocyanins, carotenoids from peppers and saffron, chlorophyll from green leaves, have been used to color food and cosmetics, for centuries.⁴

 

Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum L.), commonly used in the Mediterranean diet, are a major source of antioxidants and contribute to the daily intake of a significant amount of these molecules. Numerous studies have shown that by regular consumption of tomatoes, the resistance to cancer of the prostate, lung, digestive, but also heart disease is increased. Also, tomatoes help to fight against atherosclerosis syndrome and muscle degeneration, the main causes of discomfort in people over 65 years. They are consumed fresh or as processed products such as canned tomatoes, sauce, juice ketchup and soup.⁵ Lycopene is a natural carotenoid that imparts red color to various fruits and vegetables such as tomato, rosehip, watermelon and pink grape fruit.⁶ The major colouring principle of lycopene extract from tomato is all-trans-lycopene. Lycopene in tomatoes and tomato products consists predominantly of all-trans-lycopene (35-96% of the total lycopene content) and low levels of cis-lycopenes (1-22% of the total lycopene content). The lycopene content in tomato typically ranges from 70 to 130 mg/kg and depends on the variety, geographic location, technique of cultivation, climatic conditions and degree of ripeness of tomato fruits.⁷ Present study was aimed to explore use of lycopene extracted from tomato as a colouring agent for preparation of safe and effective herbal lipstick.

 

Figure 1: Cross-section and full view of Solanum lycopersicum L. fruit

 

A: Skeletal formula of all-trans lycopene

 

B: Ball-and-stick model of all-trans lycopene

Figure 2: Chemical structure of Lycopene

 

MATERIALS AND METHODS:

Materials:

Bees wax and Carnuba wax were purchased from ACME Chemicals, Mumbai. Castor oil and White soft paraffin were purchased from S.D. Lab. Chemical Centre, Mumbai. Lemon juice was prepared from lemon purchased from local market of Kolhapur. Tomato and Strawberry essence was procured from local market of Kolhapur.

 

Methods:

Isolation/Extraction of Lycopene from Tomato:

100 gm of tomato paste were taken in beaker. 30 mL of warmed (40^oC) benzene was added to it, stirred it and benzene was decanted. Same procedure was repeated for 5 times. Then benzene was distilled out so as to get lycopene extract.⁸

 

Identification of Lycopene extracted from Tomato:

For identification of lycopene extracted from tomato, few crystals of lycopene were added to concentrated sulfuric acid. Then color change was observed. If color changes to indigo blue then it can be confirmed that presence of lycopene.⁸

 

Formulation of Herbal Lipstick:

The herbal lipstick was formulated as per general method of lipstick formulation. In brief; all hard and soft waxes were melted in porcelain dish on water bath with decreasing order of their melting point. Lycopene was mixed with Castor oil and heated. Both phases were mixed at same temperature. Strawberry essence and lemon juice were added at 40^oC. Then mixture was poured into lipstick mould in excess amount and mould was kept on ice bath. After solidification surplus amount was scrapped with blade. Lipsticks were removed from mould and flamed. Prepared Lipsticks were fitted in Lipstick container and used for further evaluation.⁹ Composition and importance of different ingredients used for preparation of herbal lipstick is shown in Table 1.

 

Table 1: Composition and importance of different ingredients used for preparation of herbal lipstick

Ingredients	Quantity taken	Importance of Ingredient
Bees wax	9 gm	Hard wax (Hardness)
Carnuba wax	3 gm	Hard wax (Hardness)
White soft paraffin	11 gm	Soft wax (Glossy)
Castor oil	2 gm	Blending agent
Lycopene	0.25 gm (1 %)	Coloring agent
Strawberry essence	0.035 gm (1.5 %)	Flavoring agent
Lemon juice	0.25 gm (1 %)	Anti-oxidant

 

Evaluation of Herbal Lipstick: ^{9, 10, 11}

Colour and Texture:

Formulated lipsticks were checked for colour, glossy and smooth texture.

 

pH:

The pH of formulated herbal lipsticks was determined using digital pH meter (Systronics 802).

 

Determination of Melting Point:

Determination of melting point is an important parameter for lipstick formulation; as it is an indication of the limit of safe storage. The melting point of formulated lipstick was determined by capillary tube method. In brief; approximately 50 mg of lipstick sample was taken and melted and filled into glass capillary tube opened at both ends. Capillary was cooled with ice for 2h and fastened with thermometer. Thermometer with capillary was deep in the beaker containing full of water which was placed on heating plate with magnetic stirrer (Remi). Heating and stirring was started slowly at fixed speed.   The temperature at which material moves along the capillary tube was considered as melting point.

 

Breaking Point:

This test was carried out to find out the value of maximum load that lipstick can withstand before it break. This test gives strength of lipstick. Prepared herbal lipstick was held horizontally in a socket inch away from the edge of support. The weight was gradually increased by a specific value (10 gm) at specific interval of 30 second and weight at which breaks was considered as the breaking point. (Figure 3)

 

Figure 3: Determination of Breaking point of Herbal Lipstick

 

Softening Point:

Lipstick should be able to withstand range of conditions to which it will be subjected in the consumer’s handbag. It should be resistant to varying temperature conditions and be just as easy to apply in hot and as in cold weather. Softening point of lipstick was determined by Ring and Ball method.

 

Ring and Ball method:

A ring or support orifice is taken and prepared herbal lipstick was inserted into it. Extra mass above and below the orifice was removed using a sharp blade leaving a tablet of lipstick fitted into the ring. This was placed in refrigerator (6°C) for about 10 min. Ring was tied onto a stand. A beaker containing 500 mL water at room temperature is placed on a hot plate with magnetic stirrer (Remi). A steel ball was delicately placed on the lipstick tablet. The bar with support was then inserted into the beaker till it submerged into it. Heating and slow agitation was then begun. Temperature was monitored using a thermometer. The temperature at which the lipstick mass and steel balls were loosed and falls to the bottom of the beaker was noted as softening point of lipstick. (Figure 4)

 

Figure 4: Ring and Ball method for determination of Softening point of Herbal Lipstick

 

Surface anomalies:

This was studied by the surface defects, such as formation of crystals on surface, contamination by moulds, fungi, formation of wrinkles, exudation of liquid substances and of solid fatty substances, etc.

 

Aging stability:

Prepared herbal lipsticks were stored at refrigerator temperature (4^oC), room temperature (20-25^oC) and high temperature (30-40^oC) for 1h. Various parameters such as bleeding, streaking, cratering and blooming were observed.

 

Perfume stability:

The prepared herbal lipsticks were tested after 30 days, to record fragrance.

 

Comparison with marketed formulation:

Prepared herbal lipsticks were compared with standard marketed formulation for all evaluation parameters mentioned above.

 

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION:

Isolation/Extraction of Lycopene from Tomato:

Lycopene was extracted from Tomato. Yield of Lycopene was found to be 2.8 mg/100 gm of tomato paste. Tomato paste and extracted lycopene is shown in Figure 5.

 

A                                                 B

Figure 5: A: Tomato paste, B: Lycopene extract

Identification of Lycopene extracted from Tomato:

As colour changes from colourless to indigo blue, it was confirmed that, presence of Lycopene. (Figure 6)

 

Figure 6: Identification test for Lycopene

 

Formulation of Herbal Lipstick:

Herbal lipstick was successfully formulated using lycopene and were used for further evaluation.

 

Figure 7: Prepared Herbal Lipstick using Lycopene as a colouring agent

 

Evaluation of Herbal Lipstick:

Prepared Herbal Lipstick was evaluated for different parameters and also compared with marketed preparation. Results are shown in Table 2.

 

 

Table 2: Evaluation of Herbal Lipstick

 

Results showed that all evaluation parameters of Herbal Lipstick are resemble with standard values and marketed formulation.

 

CONCLUSION:

Study concluded that herbal lipstick can be successfully formulated using different natural ingredients such as bees wax, carnuba wax, white soft paraffin, castor oil, lycopene, strawberry essence, lemon juice, etc. Lycopene extracted from Solanum lycopersicum L. will be better option for synthetic colouring agents which may arise different side effects. Consumers can take safe and effective advantage of this herbal lipstick after thorough clinical trials.

 

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

The authors are grateful to Management of Bharati Vidyapeeth College of Pharmacy, Kolhapur for providing the facility to carry out this research.

 

CONFLICT OF INTEREST:

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

 

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Accepted on 21.03.2017           © RJPT All right reserved